Kashmir’s Pashmina: tracing the legacy of ‘Soft Gold'

New Delhi (The Uttam Hindu): When winter arrives woolen garments are typically the go-to choice for warmth. However, for those looking to add a touch of luxury to their seasonal wardrobe, Pashmina is the ultimate selection. Often referred to as "soft gold," this fabric has been synonymous with elegance and prestige since the Mughal era. In this installment of Indian Textiles 101 , we explore the rich history and origins of this unique material, renowned for its exceptional warmth and qualities.

Pashmina is a heritage textile made from a special type of wool primarily sourced from Ladakh, in northern India. The word “Pashmina” is derived from the Persian term pashm , meaning soft wool. This wool is collected from the undercoat of the Changthangi goats, which are native to Ladakh.

Pashmina holds deep cultural significance particularly in Kashmir where it is used to create ceremonial shawls and family heirlooms. The fabric is closely linked with luxury warmth and traditional craftsmanship embodying the rich heritage of the region.

The Making of Pashmina

Crafting Pashmina is an art form that has been passed down through generations in the Himalayan region. The process of making this exquisite fabric is entirely hand-spun and handwoven, infusing each piece with a sense of human touch and historical significance. For many families in the Himalayas, this craft is not only a livelihood but also a means of preserving cultural identity. Creating a Pashmina shawl involves a painstaking process that includes hand-combing, spinning, weaving, and dyeing. This entire process can take weeks or even months to complete. The weaving is done on traditional handlooms, requiring an exceptional level of skill and precision.

Pashmina is often combined with various traditional techniques, including Kani weave, block printing, Sozni embroidery, crewel embroidery, and rafugari. Depending on the complexity of the design, the creation of a single Pashmina piece can span from months to even years.

The Ring Test Adding a historical perspective, the "Ring Test" was introduced by European merchants in the 18th and 19th centuries to verify the authenticity of Pashmina shawls. This test involves passing an authentic Pashmina shawl through a standard-sized finger ring, showcasing the fabric’s remarkable fineness—less than 16 microns in diameter. The Ring Test has become a symbol of the artisan’s skill, the purity of the material, and the mastery of the weaving process, serving as a way for merchants and buyers to authenticate genuine Pashmina. In conclusion, Pashmina is much more than just a fabric—it represents a legacy of craftsmanship, history, and culture. From its origins in Ladakh to its association with luxury and refinement, Pashmina continues to be a cherished part of India’s textile heritage.